Blown Power Supply on Philips Plasma

Picture 2.pngI’ve been meaning to post this blog entry for some time – but better late than never. In late February, as the kids were getting ready to leave for school in the morning, they mentioned to me that the TV in our Sunroom was not working and it had a blinking red light. I went downstairs sure enough my 42″ Philips Plasma TV (Model: 42PF9631D/37) would not turn on. After the jump I’ll explain how I fixed the problem for under $30.

First of all let me start by giving a little background on the TV. It was a extremely nice house warming gift from my parents when I bought my house just over two years ago. This was my first flat screen and I was so very excited. So much so that at the time it was delivered at 7:30 am, I rushed over from my old house, where I was still living, to meet the delivery guys at the new house — I was still in sweats. I even had that box cracked opened before the delivery guys had left the driveway.

Fast forward two years and poof – the plasma decides it won’t turn on. I’m sure that a lot of you can relate, in a large family it really hurts to have one of the TVs down for any amount of time. Everyone’s daily routine is thrown off, rules start to get ignored (evidence: crumbs on the carpet in the “no-eating” rooms that had working TVs), the arguments start on what shows to watch, etc. So it behooved me to get the plasma fixed as quickly as possible to avoid losing family members. However, I was not looking forward to the repair bill.

Before I started calling around for repair shops, I broke out the warranty paperwork. Of course – just out of warranty. Luc200903260917.jpgky me. Typical. Fortunately I didn’t pay anything for it.

However, on a hunch I jumped on the internet and did some research on the model in question. In my research, I found out that the first year to 18 months of this line of Philips plasmas had been out, there were very few issues. At least not enough to cause any concerns regarding any major defects. That was until January or so of this year (2009) – I started seeing dozens of complaints of blown power supplies and the horror stories surrounding getting the plasmas fixed.

Once again the AVForums had all the answers a guy with A/V problems needs. I discovered this thread that deals with a number of Philips plasma models exhibiting the same symptoms. Here were my symptoms: Power On, Green Power Light, 2 “relay clicks” (you can hear the clicks clearly), Power light goes red and flashes 7 times, Power light stays red. Basically all of this pointed to something wrong with the power board(s) in the plasma. A majority of the reported issues were with blown capacitors. I believe that one person reported that the specific capacitor was rated for 1000 hrs – no wonder so many of them were failing just outside their warranty period and all at once!

Message #70 of the thread really sank it home for me, as the poster had exactly the same model of plasma I had and he had posted pictures of the blown capacitors. At this point I figured that I might as well see if I had the same problem – and maybe attempt to fix it myself to save on the repair costs. I thought I would post some pictures about this project – hopefully it will help someone else out.

Here is a picture of the plasma with the back taken off. I’ve edited the picture to show the capacitors that were blown:


Here is a close up of the blown capacitors:


You’ll notice that the top of the capacitors are not flat, but rather blown up.

I took the board to a local electronics store, Green Brook Electronics, that had some guys on hand that knew their stuff. Frank, the guy that help me through this mess, confirmed the blown capacitors. He also inspected the rest of the board and gave me a little bit of advice on some of the parts. He then said that he didn’t have the appropriate part on hand, but I could find it online readily enough. Once I got the part, he would put them on the board for me.

One bit of advice Frank had was that when attempting to get the part online – make sure I have the correct measurements of the capacitors (12.50mm x 25.00mm). I didn’t realize at the time how important that was until I started looking for the part online. I was stunned at the number of choices of electronics parts – I’m such a nubie with this stuff.

In any event, I took Frank’s suggestion on using Digi-Key. After about an hour of trying to find the part myself – I resorted to using the online chat with their tech support. They were extremely helpful. They found two appropriate parts in 3 minutes. One part rated for 1000 hrs and the other for 7000 hrs. I got the 7000 hrs version. Here is the link to the specific part I ordered: 493-1754-ND. It cost me $1.07 for each capacitor – shipping was more expensive than the parts – about $6 on the slow truck.

Once I got the capacitors three days later, I went back to Frank and in 10 minutes he had the new parts put on the board. Frank charge me something like $16 and change – I gave him $17. I raced home with the newly repaired board and installed it immediately. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP!

In total – I spent about $27 and 8 hours of effort (research, two electronic store visits, moving the tv – with a friend – Thanks Mark!). A lot better than the $800 repair bill I would have to pay. A great big THANK YOU to the community of AVForums.

I hope that this article helped someone out – and if you are in the Greenbrook, NJ area and need some electronic work done, go to Green Brook Electronics.


324 thoughts on “Blown Power Supply on Philips Plasma

  1. I’m experiencing the same blown cap problem i just ordered from Digikey they are great like you said I’ll post my results but I’m sure it will be positive results. I was quoted $350-$450 to repair my set that was motivation enough for me. Thanks for the post everyone. If this works I’ll start taking repair orders lol

  2. Worked for me too!! Had a similar issue with the TV not turning on and the red blinking lights. I had a burning smell coming from the TV a few weeks back and it started acting up after that. When I turned it on, it used to make some scratchy sounds. Then a few days later, it would not turn on immediately. However, if I unplugged it from the outlet and plugged it back in, it used to turn on after a few attempts. Opened it up and sure enough, it was the same capacitors. Ordered a pair from DigiKey and took it to a shop where the guy soldered it on. He was actually suggesting that I put in much higher voltage capacitors, but those looked too big to me, so I just went with the ones which I had ordered. Just got it installed over the weekend and it seems to be working fine now.

    Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences. You have saved me a few hundred dollars!!

  3. i love you!!!! For 5 months in order to see the whole movie i have to turn on TV at ;least 6 times /hour especially when day is hot I print the string nad will try to buy the parts . Thanks barbara

  4. Well here are my results I changed the capacitors and put everything back. I plugged up the TV and now I got the red light flashing 6x. I remembered what my teachers told me always recheck your work. I took the board back out and rechecked my connection. Make sure your capacitors are flush with the power board and they are all in the correct position. The negative side to negative this is important. Once I reversed the polarity of the capacitors and re-soldered them back into place I re connected everything and plugged the TV up and Va la it works like new I’m taking orders . Originally I did not get the flashing red lights until after i put the new parts in with the reversed polarity. Once I made the changes everything worked great.
    drop me a line at for a service call. lol

  5. i can’t believe this??

    In 2009 I purchased a Phillips 42″ LCD HDTV #42PFL5704D/F7.
    A couple weeks ago on a rainy thunderous night, my tv went out.
    I assumed the obvious reason was for the outage was the lightning.
    So after a $400 repair bill and almost a month w/o the main television,
    I’m reading this blog jawdropped on how much I could have saved
    with a little research. I was charged over $100 for the part(s) and the rest was labor?

    This information is real informative, and I still can’t believe i could have relsoved the situation myself without the expensive price point. Live n Learn.. thx for this awesome blog.

  6. Samwha capacitors are utter crap we see thousands of TVs and other goods using them and they ALWAYS fail, we fit Rubycon or Panasonic 105 Deg C caps in the place of these as standard now weather they need them or not, these Samwha caps are cheap chinese rubbish like so much of the cheap electrical crap we see in the UK from china it ends up in landfill after a year or so, my philips 42PF5521 plasma does the opposite when its warm the TV turns off and can’t be taken out of standby if you do the green light flashes and no picture or sound, leave it for 20 mins and it works, I have changed every cap on the PSU board and it still bloody does it, PSU chirps when in fault mode and the VA and VS voltages are missing, 12v and 5 v there and working, YSUS and ZSUS boards fine caps also checked but they are good quality rubycon ones anyway it makes no sence as once it fires back up VA and VS voltages are spot on ruling out YSUS and ZSUS, my PSU looks differant to yours it does not have a “step” in the top right but is listed as used in my model and yours.

  7. So, I found the following post about the blown caps, as well as a TON of posts on Youtube about this same issue. I went to our local elecronics store…Frys… and bought a couple of the 3000 caps. And…… 50″ plamsa is back working like a charm!!! SWEET!! Although, just to note, taking the tv cover off was easy, but 100 tiny screws!…… taking off the old capacitors….. sort of a pain in the ass!! I had to desolder them, then the holes were not clean, so I had to take a tiny drill bit…I mean TINY!!…and hand drill out the capacitor holes on the board so the new capacitor leads would fit into the board. Anyways, about 3 hours total time to fix and power back up. GOOD AS NEW!!!

        • hi. I just experienced the same issues with my i thk its a 72 or 76 inch philips tv model 60pl9200d/37. although im not sure how many times it blinked when the red light came on, I know it made a terrible screeching sound then no sound no pic. does this sound like the same?

          • Kashina – it doesn’t sound like you have the same issue. You may want to post a message on the AVForums. Lots of experts hanging out there that may be able to assist.


  8. Thank you very much, your post was extremly helpful. My neighbor had one of these TV’s and said I could have it if I wanted to fix it. She told me that she thought it was just a simple repair and to look on the web for details. So as you said $2.08 in parts and an hour of work later we have a working 42″ plasma tv. The link to DigiKey with the filled in order form was also very nice. Thanks again!!!

  9. I just wanted to say a HUGE THANK YOU!!!! to you for posting this blog. I can’t believe that it worked and also that I was able to pull it off myself!! Ordered the parts that you recommended and went out and purchased a soldering gun along with solder. After much time trying to get the solder cleaned off and insert the new capacitors, it finally worked and I was able to get it put back together. I put the cover back on and plugged it back in, and VOILA it was a clear picture and working perfectly!!!
    Thanks so much…would not have been possible without you posting this blog and being so good at describing exactly what you did. Another successful repair, and savings of a few hundred bucks.

  10. I took the motherboard out of my 50 inch phillips because it was blinking red six times slow, then three fast and the screen wouldn’t turn on. Unfortunately I cannot find any blown caps. All are flat. Also, all of the diagrams I see online have different heatsinks than my TV has – mine has a Samsung motherboard.

    I put everything back, and plugged in without the back on. I can see a green LED on the motherboard and one on another board just above the input enclosure, and there’s one flashing green just under the edge of the input enclosure as well, so I take that as good signs that capacitors in those areas are working well enough, but still no picture, and two out of three times I turn it on, the flashing red light goes six slow and three fast blinks, cycling.

    So my question is, should I take the motherboard somewhere and have the capacitors all tested? Or is this thing ready for the recycler?

    • I had the same problem with my 50 Inc. It was the same two capacitors as illustrated. replaced them and it worked fine.

    • Matt – see if you can just replace the motherboard. Last ebay/google search I did turn up a bunch of spare parts for these tvs.


  11. What are the risks in fixing something like this yourself? As long as the TV is unplugged, is there much risk of electric shock? I’ve heard that old-style TVs pack quite a punch even when they’re unplugged. Is the same true for Plasma TVs? My grandpa’s TV just broke, and the symptoms are exactly the same as those described above.

    • Kathy – as long as you unplug the TV and let it sit for a while to allow the onboard capacitors to discharge, you should be fine. Don’t attempt this with the unit plugged in. Based on your question, I would highly recommend that you don’t attempt to do this yourself. If you do attempt this – take notes, or pictures so you know how to put everything back together. There’s no guarantee that the steps I’ve document or others have document is going to work in your case – but it’s worth $20 and an hour or so of work to find out.

      Having a fire extinguisher nearby isn’t a bad idea. just saying…. πŸ™‚


      • JT – I’m getting ready to replace the IR sensor in my 42″ Philips LCD (won’t respond to remote, and I’ve already troubleshot the remote). Any “tricks of the trade” to taking the back panel off. I’ve located all the screws, but am just looking for any tips in removing that back cover. I believe the IR sensor is easily accessible once that is off.

  12. Thank you for this information!!! Have the 42″ model, and it went out yesterday with 7 flashing lights. Would unplug it and turn it on and it would click like it was about to come on, get a green light, then the red light would start flashing. I searched online to see what it meant and came across this story and sure enough, capacitors were blown (buldging at the top just like your picture shows)!!! $10, and two capacitors later we are up and running! Many thanks again!!! It works like a champ!!

  13. I have the same problem, same model number, ive looked over every cap on all the boards and no blown caps… anyone got any other areas to look at? Could a cap inside the PSU itself (the box that plugs into the board AND into the wall socket) have blown?? Any feedback would be helpfull

  14. After my TV was hanging on the wall not working for the past 6 months I decided to either try to fix it or get a new one (per my wife’s orders). I have the exact Philips TV referenced in this blog. I did exactly what he said to do including ordering the parts from the prescribed link. Swear to you it played out exactly as described and it took three days to get the parts and I just plugged it in and worked perfectly. Probably saved $500-$800. It was $2.27 for the parts, $8.39 for shipping and $15 to have them swapped out at TV repair store. Took me a total of 30 mins of my time. Shame on Phillips for putting such crappy electronics in their TV’s and Kudos to this dude for making the fix so easy and cost effective.

  15. Thank you for this information. This was exactly what was wrong with my Philips 42″ and I think I have about $25 in the repair. It would have only been about 10 bucks but I needed some solder and a solder wick. This probably saved me $300 or more and the pictures and instructions on making the repair were exactly right.

    Thanks again.

  16. JT – You are the Man!! This was the exact problem with my Philips 42in Plasma early this week. I found your post and went to work. Fired TV up tonight and it’s like new! My buzzing sound has went away too that I’ve had for sometime now.
    15 mins to remove the ckt board
    $2 for the capacitors
    2 days for parts to arrive
    10 minutes to replace the capacitors
    15 mins to reinstall ckt board and mount TV
    Your picture and instructions – PRICE LESS
    Thanks JT

  17. I have a 50 inch Philips plasma purchased in 2005 with moderate to heavy use for a family of 4. Its mounted above the fire place. It just went dead while watching Billy Madison last night. There was some red flashes, but not the pattern of 7 that I am reading. How easy is it to access the mother board to see if if the capacitors are blown?

    • Steve, I just fixed my 50″ Phillips Plasma after reading this full thread. The power LED in the lower front left which is normally green would flash red 6 slow, 3 quick repeatedly. We could occasionally get the TV to power all the way up by unplugging/plugging the power cord multiple times until it finally “clicked” and stayed green. Mother board access simple, albeit tons of screws to remove the back center panel of the TV. Once removed, the center portion of the mother board had the two capacitors as described in the threads above with the tops “tented” up vice flat like the rest (the 42″ picture embedded above shows the capacitors side by side, mine were in the same general location, but spaced by one other small component on the board). I wasn’t confident in soddering skills and did some calling around (live in the greater DC area). Found an Electronic Service Center in Rockville, MD who had spares and did the replacement with parts for 50$ in about 5 minutes. Not quite as cheap as everyone else who has posted achieved on their own, but I came directly home, put the mother board back in place, reconnected everything and it powered up perfectly. One note – the tech that did the repair said the original capacitors at 10V was probably the issue and he replaced with 16V versions.

  18. Hi, I have a 50 inch philips plasma for just over 5 years. About a month ago when we switched on the power the TV would come on in mute mode and after a couple of minutes the sound would kick in, it wouldn’t un-mute via remote control. Now for the past week the TV won’t come on when powered up, it does however click into the green led, but after a few seconds it clicks again. If I use the remote to power off it will go to the red led but if I try a power back on the green light flashes, one slow flash followed by seven quick flashes.. The symptoms seem similar to those in previous threads. Just thought I would post this to see if anyone else had any similar issues.
    It is worth noting that after several attempts, unplugging then powering up, the TV does come on, but I do have to wait about5 minutes during each attempt with the green light on because it takes about that long for it to kick in. Any advice/recommendations would be happly received.

  19. Are the capacitors the same for the 50 inch plasma as the 42 inch because I ordered the same ones listed above with the part number from digitek I installed them today and still does the same thing with the red blinking light. Can anyone let me know if I need to buy different capacitors again.

  20. Very informative post, thank you!!

    I have a very similar problem but on a different model (42PFP5332D/37) – the front light stays blue but the TV keeps clicking away and never turns on. And you can see a green LED flashing inside the tv. I do suspect its the same problem though – found a couple of blown caps. Couple of questions –
    1) I presume you had to unscrew the power board to replace the caps, correct?
    2) Doing so merely involves removing the screws and all the connectors plugged into the board?

    • Success with my 50″. Philips plasma, even though mine started with loss of sound then moved on to not switching on, with flashing gren light not red, I opened it up and low and behold 2 blown caps as described above, €6 on eBay, a mate inserted them and I just placed back in the board and fired up straight away….. πŸ™‚ thanks JT and everyone else who left a post

  21. Hello Arun

    My father inlaw has the same model with the same issue. We did a similar repair with our Samsung TV with great success. I was wondering if you could tell me how many capacitors you had to replace and what the specs for them were. They live far from us but I’d love to take a bag of capacitors and my soldering gun with me to fix it when we go. Theres a good chance we’d have the same capacitors cooked as you.


    • Hi Paul,

      I had to replace 2 caps – a 1000uF 16V (10mm diameter, 22mm height, 5mm lead spacing) and a 680uF 50V (12mm diameter, 26mm height, 5mm lead spacing). They were aluminium caps and I ordered them from digi-key ( Given the thousands of caps / types of caps out there, I didn’t bother finding them myself – just took advantage of the live chat support available at DigiKey. Good luck!!


      • Thanks so much for the info Arun! I think I’ll go ahead and order the caps on the chance our identical problem is with the same caps.

  22. This is great, I did what it said replace capacitor now the tv Orkney great. Easy to do found a electrical shop they had the parts $5.00 buck each and soldered it for $5 bucks each. Tv repaired for $20.00, the hardest part was taking off the back of the cabinet had a lot of screws and you will need a star screw driver, otherwise took about 2 hours total and I have been quoted at least $160. From tv repairman. Thanks this is a great blog

  23. Just a note of thanks again to Arun for giving me the specs on his blown caps and the author of this bog for getting the word out about this easy fix. I ordered the ones he told me to and when we pulled the back off of the TV, it was the same ones damaged. TV is running great now.
    I often wonder how many TVs are getting tossed in the dump with this cheap repair problem? If a guy worked in a recycling depot he could probably own a second had TV store fixing blown caps on peoples throw away TVs. My father in law had brought his to a repair place and it came on for the technician so he said there was nothing wrong with it and charged him $65 for turning it on. We’re baffled he wasn’t aware of this issue when a quick google search will bring up all kinds of cases. He was ready to go buy a new TV and ditch his Plasma but I told him to check the caps before he did since my samsung did the same and we fixed it.

  24. JT – thank you so much for your post. Not only did you save me a lot of money but you also saved me a lot time. Much appreciated!

  25. The fix worked for my Philips 42in Plasma also. Just to be on the safe side I decided to order the replacements with a slightly higher working voltage so I ordered Digi-Key part number 493-1798-ND (CAP ALUM 3300UF 16V 20% RADIAL). These have the same lead spacing so they’ll pop right into the existing PCB holes and there’s enough clearance inside the case for them to stand upright without obstruction. They were $1.43 each – and don’t forget to select first class mail postage which is much cheaper than Ground for a small order. Philip

  26. model # 42pf7220a/37 no picture no sound power supply goes green then goes red 7 times. relay clicks off. so should i check the caps any how. ( 3300uf 10 volts) for (esr) reading. THANK YOU.

  27. I got no picture but colored diagonal lines on my 50 inch Philips Plasma TV. The power light doesn’t stop blinking. After reading some of problems of some friends here with the same TV as mine, I decided to open the TV. I found 1 capacitor blown. So I ordered the digi.key part # 493-1574-ND. I brought it to an electronic shop to change the 2 same size 2 capacitors adjacent to each other as I think the other 1 will blow up soon. I paid $10. I turned on the TV and it powered on but the horizontal lines are still there with no picture. I tried to unplug to reset. When I powered it on again, the TV did not turn on anymore. Then I remembered Kent’s comment #101 on Dec. 3, 2009 above. I found a blown up fuse. I ordered the fuse and waiting for it in the mail. My questions: (1) Why the colored horizontal lines; (2) How do you know the fuse is blown?

  28. I had my Phillips 50″ plasma since 2008 and finally this year the clicking problem kicked in. After finding this article, a tv guy with a soldering gun, and $40 bucks later it’s back to life. Saved a ton, prec.

  29. Wow!this is what life is all about! Giving and receiving just because… strings attached! Thank you to JT and to each and everyone of you for your questions, answers and input on this topic. I too am experiencing the exact same thing with the flashing lights and no power! My husband is driving me bonkers coming into our bedroom during my quiet time clicking on our other 42 inch ambilight because his prized 50 plus inch ambilight will no longer power on at first click! Mind you. There are other plasmas around the home that are just as grand as his prized screen but mr. Cheapy, whom I love very dearly, BTW, refused to pay the money to have the total cable sports package on the others. so he gingerly waltzes into our room clicks, mutes and gets comfortable. I must admit he is trying….muting the tv and all but for my sanity I must get his precious tv repaired.

    Thank you for starting this post JT. Kevin, my beloved, thanks you as well! I will extend some appreciation to avforums as well. I’m about to visit their site to order parts. wish me… luck!

  30. Hi JT,

    Thanks for the blog and help, I had the exact same capacitors gone bad. Ordered a few spare from Digikey. Soldered them myself. The TV is working back again. Thanks again.

  31. JT – Here it is 4 years after you first posted the solution to the power problem for the Philips Amberlight televisions. After 7 years of service, my 50″ set shut down displaying the same symptoms as you outlines. After all the screws, ordering a couple of caps and installation, I am out a total of less than $10 including UPS shipping of the parts (which my the way cost the stunning price of 98 cents each. Two bucks for parts, eight bucks for shipping, and a little soldering on my part put me back on the air in 3 days. Hats off to you for sharing this simple solution.

  32. I barely use my TV and one day it just stopped working. I came across this post, followed your directions, and its back up and running. Thanks for your technical support and documentation efforts. It looks like you helped a lot of people out. Maybe Phillips should write you a check……

    Regards from NJ

  33. I hope somebody has advice for me. My 50″ Plasma turned off the other day, and will not turn back on. No blue light, no blinking red light, and no clicking sounds. No power at all. I removed the back of the tv, and the capacitors look fine. Could the capacitors be bad, and not outwardly look bad? I want to try and fix the tv, and need advice on how to proceed.


    • I discovered that I had a blown fuse on the main power supply board. It was located on the bottom right of the board. I pulled it out and it was burnt/blown. It was an 8 amp/125 volt ceramic fuse. I’m temporarily using a 6 amp/125 volt replacement. The TV is working PERFECTLY!! I will get the ceramic 8/125 next week and replace the 6/125 just to be safe. I was told to NEVER add a higher amp fuse, because this could damage other boards/capacitors in the TV. Going with a smaller amp will not hurt the TV. It could just blow easier. ANYWAY, I spent $3.99 on 2 fuses, used 1, and my 50′ PLASMA HDTV 1080p IS WORKING! FINE!! I’m glad I didnt put it in the trash!!

  34. Had same problem. Bought capacitors off amazon 15 for like 2$ also bought a solder gun and replaced the blown ones in about an hour.

  35. So I am having a problem with my philips TV. I took it in for repair because it had sound and no video. they changed out the video module and I spent 275 to fix it. it was working fine that night that I brought it home. the next morning I tried to turn it on the light flashed and then nothing happened. So I called the repair people again and told them what had happened. so then they said it was the Cam Module that was another 100 to fix that. it was working fine that night. the next morning I tried to turn it on again and the same thing happened. the light flashed and then nothing. does anyone know what the problem could be? I don’t have much more that I can put into this TV.

    • Rosalyn –

      Does it sound like its trying to turn on but doesn’t? You may very well have the same problem a lot of people on this thread have experienced. Lay the TV face down on a flat surface and pop open the back panel. Look for those blown capacitors and see if you can replace them. I certainly would not recommend another trip to your repair folks.

  36. IM having same problem my baby is due soon just baught this 50 plasma Philips of.corse I turn it on and it.pops in.the.speakers and then continuously blinks red. I turn it back on.sometimes it. Makes poplingsnoise then turns on is that the same are thoughs the.things i.should get for mine?

    • Brady – It sounds like you are experiencing a much different issue. I would recommend that you head over to the AVForums if you haven’t already and ask your question there. There are a lot more experienced people there that may be able to help out.


  37. I hope somebody has advice for me. My 50β€³ Plasma turned off the other day, and will not turn back on. No blue light, no blinking red light. No power at all. I removed the back of the tv, and the capacitors look fine. Could the capacitors be bad, and not outwardly look bad? I want to try and fix the tv, and need advice on how to proceed. There are some capacitors that look like they have a bunch of glue? on them but thats the only difference in those and the others.

    Any Ideas??????????????????


    • From my limited understanding, yes, capacitors can be bad, even if they don’t outwardly look bad. Obviously the problem is not similar to what is in this post. I would recommend that you hit up the AVForums mentioned in the article — there are a lot more experience people there that maybe able to help out.

      Given that, if it were me, I would look to see if I could replace the entire power board assembly. I’d open it up and take a look to see if there are any identifying model numbers, etc. on the board. Armed with that information, I would hit up ebay, google, etc to see if you can get a replacement board. It’ll cost you more, but probably less than a new TV.

      Good luck!

  38. Thanks for posting this solution and especially for giving a link to Digikey….what a time saver πŸ™‚

    If I may make a suggestion to add to the article above….when I pulled my TV off the wall I was embarrassed as an Electrical Lead engineer for the past 20 + years to discover that all the vent holes on the TV were clogged with dust which for sure caused the TV to run hotter internally than designed simple because the dust prevents the heat generated from escaping efficiently and is most likely a contributing factor to these capacitors failing. I would recommend yearly vacuuming of all the vent holes and really this is true of all house hold appliances and electronics.

    I saw a couple of posts for replaced capacitors didn’t fix the problem or gave 4 blinking lights now. One possibility is that these capacitors are electrolytic which in means polarity sensitive…..English version is there is a negative and positive side just like a common AA battery. Make sure you check how these caps were installed and if backwards change them around. I always take tons of photos to help with repairs and putting back together.

    • Chuck – Sorry, it’s been a few days since you’ve posted – but Thank YOU for your comment! I’m glad things worked out!


  39. I have a 55inch philips tv & had it for about 3 – 4 yrs. Today I noticed a burning smell. The tv still works & turns on just fine. Is this a sign that my tv is going out or is it just dust? I’m not having any other problems with the tv, but I would like to fix the smell problem before it blows up or something.

    • Hey B –

      Burning smells – that doesn’t sound too good. As the TV is just over 3 years old – and pretty much out of warranty, I bet – If the smell is coming from the TV, it could be b/c some of the parts are burning out. You won’t know till you actually do a physical examination of the innards.

      It only takes about an half-hour to an hour of your time to open up the back and take a quick peek (make sure you’re not connected to a power source!!) Or you can call a professional to come out to take a look.

      Good luck!

      • Yea the warranty is up. My tv is pretty much on all day everyday having 3 kids that love to play video games lol. Soon as I smelled it I turned it off and unplugged it. I’m going to take the back off and check around. Thanks alot for your time.

  40. I have a 50PF9630A/37 plasma TV. When I turn it on the green light comes on and I do see the picture but there is a shadow on the bottom half and the picture is grainey. Some one told me it is a power supply related problem. Any ideas as to how to fix this. Thanks

    • Hey SN – Sorry, but no, I have no idea what is happening with your TV. I recommend that you head over to the AV forums – lots of smart people over there that may be able to steer you in the right direction.


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